Fifty shades of green

Sometimes it’s more about the journey than the destination. At least that’s what I was telling myself, riding shotgun in a pick-up truck and hurtling down a bumpy dirt track while laden with five dozen eggs. And did I mention that it was dark and there were bats darting about? I can’t even claim this was some kind of bizarre initiation ritual or a prototype for a new Mario Kart challenge and my cries of “Catch him Derry!” and “We can’t stop here, this is bat country!” clearly got lost in translation. I didn’t even know where I was going but boy was I going there in a hurry. Fortunately for all concerned I’m a seasoned ‘catch the egg’ player (if you need me to explain the rules we probably shouldn’t be friends) and despite a bit of ring rust I handled myself with consummate professionalism and diligence. Not bad given I’d spent the previous nine hours cooped up in the back of a minibus. Admittedly I was aided by the fact that a) I didn’t want to be the butt of any ‘the yolk’s on you’ gags and b) they were likely to be my breakfast but I was still pleased to be able to reach the finish line and hand my golden cargo over intact.

The rest of the journey, my first long-distance shuttle, was fine though the roads became rougher as we headed towards the remote village of Lanquín. At the same time, as we approached we were greeted by some incredible scenery - swooping valleys, lush greenery, incredible vistas. When I could see through the driving rain and ubiquitous rising clouds of mist, anyway.

Utopia Eco Lodge is the kind of idyllic rural retreat I was hoping for and made the long trip worthwhile: large wooden halls, complete with bar, communal dinners every night, no internet and a warm welcome from the damp weather. The dorm was essentially a big barn, open at either end, and it’s the first time I can remember having slept quite so openly. With the river running by below and the rolling hills above, it easily ranks alongside Viñales and Miyajima as one of the best places I’ve woken up.

Just a shame about the rain, which went on all night and continued all morning. When it did eventually ease off I set off for my main reason for coming here: Semuc Champey. An hour later, wet and muddy and having navigated the winding track I arrived at the entrance. Ten more minutes walking alongside the brown rush of the river and I made it to the pools.

Semuc Champey is a natural series of adjoining pools, with small cascades and stunningly blue water regardless of the colour of the river or the sky. The surroundings, needless to say, are every shade of green imaginable. I got very sweaty climbing up to the vantage point, being rewarded for my efforts with an aerial view of the area. Once back at ground level I was finally able to shed my clothes and take a dip, having myself a splashing good time as I enjoyed their watery delights. This is reckoned by many to be the most beautiful spot in the country and it was very easy to see why. I was even able to appreciate the scenery properly on the way back as it had cleared, allowing for everything to come into sharper focus. 

It rained all evening and all night again and then lo! the sun! It was nice to have another day to relax given the long journey here and the equally long one back out to come, as well as to let my things dry out properly. I had an explore round the not insignificant grounds at the lodge, finding yet more unsurprisingly amazing views. I also had a tour to find out more about the cacoa production process as they make their own chocolate on site. This was an interesting way to spend a couple of hours. The actual beans taste quite nutty and of course the finished article was as delicious as expected. All in all a worthy recommendation and I’m glad I came.