San Cristóbal or bust

Or rather San Cristóbal and bussed.  For while Chiapas, in the far south of Mexico was my destination, the reality is that it’s rather a long way from where I was. Thus began an epic almost-24-hour bus journey that I believe qualifies as the longest single trip that I’ve ever taken. 

Can’t complain about  the service though - plenty of leg room, seats that go way back and private headphone sockets for the TV. Inexplicably, however, no buses seem to have individual lights so it was reading by day, podcasting by night. I even managed to grab a couple of hours of something vaguely resembling sleep, which was a definite bonus. Having swapped coast for mountains, I finally arrived, feeling better than anticipated. The remaining trips will all feel like a walk in the park from now on I’m sure.

As for San Cristóbal - officially San Cristóbal de las Casas - I’m relieved to say that it was worth the wait. It’s a small city about the same size as Oxford and it’s easy to see why it’s been a traveller stop-off for decades. Over 2000 metres up, having come through some splendid vistas en route, it’s surrounded by forests. And it takes Valladolid’s pastel-hued colonial buildings and turns them up to eleven with vibrant colours. It’s a Zapatista-supporting outpost peppered with local arts and crafts and is essentially a Guardian reader’s dream - think craft beer, board game and comic shops, and vegan cafes with a side in yoga. Just in case you were wondering, that’s two thumbs up from me.

It’s a cracking place to amble about and a couple of churches atop hills gave decent views over the city. The ramshackle Maya Medicine Museum wasn’t exactly the V&A but who doesn’t want to see a diorama of a traditional birth process? And continuing the theme of one-upping Valladolid, instead of the Deer House, San Cristóbal has the Jaguar House, which was interesting if less eclectic than the earlier institution.

There’s plenty to do in the surrounding area as well - probably a theme here - and I took a day trip to nearby Sumidero Canyon. Whizzing along the river, the cliffs tower above, over a kilometre up. As well as the scenery I got my first taste of local wildlife (I’m discounting the various stray dogs that have been everywhere). Two crocodiles, a pair of spider monkeys and lots of bird life, including pelicans, felt like a solid start. Maybe it’s the lack of overly exciting fauna in the UK, maybe it’s being used to seeing such creatures at the zoo but despite knowing they were in the wild, somehow it didn’t feel quite real.

I could happily have stayed for longer (and yes, I realise I’m my own boss) but there’s only so much time I have for any given place. As the cliché goes, always leave ‘em wanting more.