The real macaw
I felt there might be a chance. I knew that there were scarlet macaws around Copán ruins and they had had a greater importance here than at any other Mayan site. Early on during my visit I saw a pair fly overhead, though too fast for me to capture on film (clearly I’m no Quick Draw Macaw) but I was feeling vaguely optimistic. The jungle housing the ruins was very much alive with a chorus of squawking, cawing and chirping and as I made my farewell the volume picked up. There! Up to my left, a scarlet macaw in the tree! And two more not much higher! A glance to my left showed me a whole blooming treetop full of these beautiful birds! It was a delightful surprise and a great departure from the main site.
Of course, most visitors will not have been surprised in the way I was. I had gone off to visit the outlying northern group of buildings first. Had I headed straight to the grand plaza like the vast majority of people, I’d have seen the information signs explaining about the parrots in the park and how many of them had been released back into the wild from the town’s rescue sanctuary. Copán was just about the southernmost outpost of the Maya so given I’m travelling north to south, it’s probably my final ruin. And I may just have saved the best till last. Bigger than most, the site had charm and was relatively quiet in terms of tourist numbers, which added to it. Its primary selling point, however, is the large number of amazingly well-preserved stelae (that’s standing stones to you and me) and altars. The intricate carvings on them were stunning and the centrepiece was the staircase recounting the history of the site and its rulers.
Not all of those on display were originals, however. Many had been removed to the adjacent and excellent sculpture museum in order to preserve them from the elements. In the middle of the museum was a replica of a temple found beneath one of the main pyramids, though sadly, if understandably, the original is not open to the public. I also walked the main site’s nature trail, taking me to the river, and then to the apparently far less popular second site around a mile away. Indeed, I saw not a soul during my exploration, with the exception of a couple of guys with the slightly thankless task of raking leaves.
Copán Ruinas town itself, to give it its full name, is small and cute and other than the namesake ruins had a few more tricks up its sleeve. On my second day I took a walk to Los Sapos, a collection of toad sculptures outside of town. The statues themselves were a bit disappointing as if I hadn’t known what they allegedly were I’d probably have assumed they were, well, boulders. The walk was pleasant though and gave great views down on the river, across to the town and on to the jungle hiding the ruins - and hiding is right as you’d never know what was lurking beneath the canopy from above. I had another encounter with a toad later in the day too. After a flash downpour in the evening, sending torrents of water gushing down sloped streets in search of scarce storm drains, the aforementioned amphibian leapt on my foot as I was making my way home. I leapt in the air in reply - in a totally dignified manner, of course.
Definitely not disappointing was the Luna Jaguar Spa, a set of natural hot springs about 20km and a windy, bumpy bus ride away. Loads of different pools and waterfalls in a peaceful setting, across a rickety bridge and leading down to a river, made for an idyllic afternoon. The water temperature came in three flavours: warm bath, sauna hot and refreshingly chill. The second was just on the verge of tolerance range, the third was pleasant for a while to cool down, and the first was, as you’ve probably guessed, just right. Bliss.
My third and final day started with Macaw Mountain, the previously mentioned bird sanctuary. Housing more parrots than you can shake your tail feathers at, it started purely as a rescue centre but has since grown to include a breeding program and ultimately aims to reintroduce those birds deemed capable back into the wild. Macaws mate for life and can live for 80 years in captivity were a couple of the more interesting facts I picked up along the way. Scarlet macaws were the most prominent here but there were other species of parrots, plus a handful of toucans, a couple of owls and a regal king vulture. I also got some photos holding Missy (blue and gold macaw) and Buffy (green macaw), with Ginger (scarlet macaw) perched on top of my head.
A trip to the archaeological museum, reading in the central park and the return of the Champions League wrapped up my final day in Copán. A belting game between Juventus and Spurs was washed down with a Thai curry and a free Cuba libre (the best kind). Even my leaving breakfast was memorable: a cracking view, huevos rancheros, and fresh-baked bread with incredible pineapple jam came with a veritable vat of coffee and then I was off to the bus stop. Honduras has been very good to me so far so I set off with high hopes for part two.
Of course, most visitors will not have been surprised in the way I was. I had gone off to visit the outlying northern group of buildings first. Had I headed straight to the grand plaza like the vast majority of people, I’d have seen the information signs explaining about the parrots in the park and how many of them had been released back into the wild from the town’s rescue sanctuary. Copán was just about the southernmost outpost of the Maya so given I’m travelling north to south, it’s probably my final ruin. And I may just have saved the best till last. Bigger than most, the site had charm and was relatively quiet in terms of tourist numbers, which added to it. Its primary selling point, however, is the large number of amazingly well-preserved stelae (that’s standing stones to you and me) and altars. The intricate carvings on them were stunning and the centrepiece was the staircase recounting the history of the site and its rulers.
Not all of those on display were originals, however. Many had been removed to the adjacent and excellent sculpture museum in order to preserve them from the elements. In the middle of the museum was a replica of a temple found beneath one of the main pyramids, though sadly, if understandably, the original is not open to the public. I also walked the main site’s nature trail, taking me to the river, and then to the apparently far less popular second site around a mile away. Indeed, I saw not a soul during my exploration, with the exception of a couple of guys with the slightly thankless task of raking leaves.
Copán Ruinas town itself, to give it its full name, is small and cute and other than the namesake ruins had a few more tricks up its sleeve. On my second day I took a walk to Los Sapos, a collection of toad sculptures outside of town. The statues themselves were a bit disappointing as if I hadn’t known what they allegedly were I’d probably have assumed they were, well, boulders. The walk was pleasant though and gave great views down on the river, across to the town and on to the jungle hiding the ruins - and hiding is right as you’d never know what was lurking beneath the canopy from above. I had another encounter with a toad later in the day too. After a flash downpour in the evening, sending torrents of water gushing down sloped streets in search of scarce storm drains, the aforementioned amphibian leapt on my foot as I was making my way home. I leapt in the air in reply - in a totally dignified manner, of course.
Definitely not disappointing was the Luna Jaguar Spa, a set of natural hot springs about 20km and a windy, bumpy bus ride away. Loads of different pools and waterfalls in a peaceful setting, across a rickety bridge and leading down to a river, made for an idyllic afternoon. The water temperature came in three flavours: warm bath, sauna hot and refreshingly chill. The second was just on the verge of tolerance range, the third was pleasant for a while to cool down, and the first was, as you’ve probably guessed, just right. Bliss.
My third and final day started with Macaw Mountain, the previously mentioned bird sanctuary. Housing more parrots than you can shake your tail feathers at, it started purely as a rescue centre but has since grown to include a breeding program and ultimately aims to reintroduce those birds deemed capable back into the wild. Macaws mate for life and can live for 80 years in captivity were a couple of the more interesting facts I picked up along the way. Scarlet macaws were the most prominent here but there were other species of parrots, plus a handful of toucans, a couple of owls and a regal king vulture. I also got some photos holding Missy (blue and gold macaw) and Buffy (green macaw), with Ginger (scarlet macaw) perched on top of my head.
A trip to the archaeological museum, reading in the central park and the return of the Champions League wrapped up my final day in Copán. A belting game between Juventus and Spurs was washed down with a Thai curry and a free Cuba libre (the best kind). Even my leaving breakfast was memorable: a cracking view, huevos rancheros, and fresh-baked bread with incredible pineapple jam came with a veritable vat of coffee and then I was off to the bus stop. Honduras has been very good to me so far so I set off with high hopes for part two.
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