This morning in Antigua not Barbuda
If Tikal is the jewel in Guatemala's crown, Antigua probably runs it a close second as the country's premier tourist destination. It's very easy to see why as it's a beautiful city, both quaint and antiquated, a grid of low-rise colourful colonial buildings. The former capital, at least it was way back when, it's a treat to wander, especially after ambling up to the viewpoint above the city. And did I mention that it's overlooked by not one but three volcanoes? Agua looms large directly to the south and a bit further afield are Acatenango and fiery Fuego, the latter of which is very active and was smoking away gently for a couple of days while I was there.
I didn't go up any of that trio but I did take a trip up Pacaya, not far away and offering great views of the aforementioned three. It's also live so we couldn't go up to the top but it felt a lot more like a volcano than San Pedro due to the darker ash and particularly the desolate black lava fields, reminiscent of Iceland. You could toast marshmallows thanks to some residual heat and there was even a shop selling volcanic crafts and local artwork. It has had to move a couple of times in the last decade due to volcanic activity!
I'm also learning to love the smell of coffee in the morning. To be fair I've always appreciated the smell but I could probably develop a taste for it too - not that I need any more vices. This was further enhanced by a tour to a local plantation, which was interesting as while I've been on numerous brewery tours, this was something new. We saw the nursery, the beans (all picked by hand) and followed the process through washing, drying and roasting before being rewarded with some of Guatemala's finest. Espresso is still a bridge too far but baby steps.
Caffeine coursing through my veins, I explored the city further and got me to a nunnery. And a convent. And even just a plain old church. In actual fact I went to several as the city has a lot of them, in various states of use and disrepair. There is also a huge market, lots of traditional arts and crafts and numerous decent eating options. As such a popular destination, it was noticeably a bit more expensive than the rest of the counry but hardly broke the bank. I also indulged in another famous export at the Chocolate Museum and also had some of the best gelato I've had outside of Italy (and some I've had in the motherland). For four days straight. I think we all know it's my Kryptonite.
It was also Six Nations opening weekend and that meant I got my annual Dambusters fix thanks to CJ, even though I was a long way from Tewkesbury. Impressively I did find somewhere to watch the rugby (a Irish pub, naturally) so settled in for beers, nachos and sport. With Lauren at a wedding (poor judgement?) it felt like some kind of harmony had been achieved. And finally, with a few remaining quetzals burning a hole in my pocket, what better way to end the third bit than with a trip to the Antigua Brewing Company for a first-class imperial stout?
I didn't go up any of that trio but I did take a trip up Pacaya, not far away and offering great views of the aforementioned three. It's also live so we couldn't go up to the top but it felt a lot more like a volcano than San Pedro due to the darker ash and particularly the desolate black lava fields, reminiscent of Iceland. You could toast marshmallows thanks to some residual heat and there was even a shop selling volcanic crafts and local artwork. It has had to move a couple of times in the last decade due to volcanic activity!
I'm also learning to love the smell of coffee in the morning. To be fair I've always appreciated the smell but I could probably develop a taste for it too - not that I need any more vices. This was further enhanced by a tour to a local plantation, which was interesting as while I've been on numerous brewery tours, this was something new. We saw the nursery, the beans (all picked by hand) and followed the process through washing, drying and roasting before being rewarded with some of Guatemala's finest. Espresso is still a bridge too far but baby steps.
Caffeine coursing through my veins, I explored the city further and got me to a nunnery. And a convent. And even just a plain old church. In actual fact I went to several as the city has a lot of them, in various states of use and disrepair. There is also a huge market, lots of traditional arts and crafts and numerous decent eating options. As such a popular destination, it was noticeably a bit more expensive than the rest of the counry but hardly broke the bank. I also indulged in another famous export at the Chocolate Museum and also had some of the best gelato I've had outside of Italy (and some I've had in the motherland). For four days straight. I think we all know it's my Kryptonite.
It was also Six Nations opening weekend and that meant I got my annual Dambusters fix thanks to CJ, even though I was a long way from Tewkesbury. Impressively I did find somewhere to watch the rugby (a Irish pub, naturally) so settled in for beers, nachos and sport. With Lauren at a wedding (poor judgement?) it felt like some kind of harmony had been achieved. And finally, with a few remaining quetzals burning a hole in my pocket, what better way to end the third bit than with a trip to the Antigua Brewing Company for a first-class imperial stout?
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